A week has gone by since my last post and it feels like a month. On Tuesday my wife and me left Visalia and made our way to coastal California driving on route 41. It took us through farming land in the Central Valley, the place where James Dean died, vineyards in colorful autumn style and the Santa Lucia Mountains.We arrived at the coast in time to see the Pismo dunes, South of Oceano. No signs show the way the, we eventually turned to the small road leading to the entrance. Our search was well rewarded as we could enjoy the dunes almost alone.
After a night in San Luis Obispo, we spend almost the whole day in Montana de Oro State Park. Many hiking paths led up the mountains and along the cliffs of the Pacific coast with breathtaking views. Down at the water were many different stone formations. I could have spent easily a few days in that park. Here our animal highlights were brown pelicans and starfish.
Before night fall we had a look to Morro Bay and saw the sunset at Morro Rock. There, many sea gulls were fed by tourists and locals alike. In the water a sea otter family was floating on their backs, starting their good night's sleep. We also saw our first seals, who were curiously checking out the otters. For me, this day was one of the best during the autumn so far.
On Wednesday we had to drive all the way from Cambria to San Jose on route 1. A early wake-up would make sure that we had enough time to see many places along the way. Or so I thought. Our Inn was at the Moonstone Beach Drive and there a long boardwalk along the coast was inviting us for a morning stroll before breakfast. Did I mention my wife REALLY likes seals? We saw quite a few during the walk and - of course - spent a lot of time watching them. Ok, I also like them a lot :)
Getting finally on our way we drove towards Piedras Blancas, where a elephant seal beach was nearby. We stopped once before that beach and found by accident a small corner with dozens of elephant seals. It's so great and peaceful to find this spots where aren't many people around. This was our favorite spot of the day. Elephant seal beach had a lot of more seals but also equally more people. Realizing that we still had a long way to drive, we got into the car and route 1 started to go up the Santa Lucia Mountains. Behind each curve we had stunning views along this long and winding road (perhaps the Beatles visited here?). Once it got dark, we just made our way to San Jose.
Three hours time difference made me wake up long before my alarm clock went off on Sunday morning. Outside the motel room window I saw a few palm trees: Good morning, California! The 14 hour trip from DC to San Jose the day before was in the past. My wife and me were ready for ten days of sunshine.
For the coming night, we already booked a room beforehand. So our goal for the day was to reach a lodge in Sequioa and King's Canyon National Park, located in the Sierra Nevada. The park is famous for the giant sequioa trees, the largest in the world. I dreamed already a long time to spend a few days of hiking around the giants.
In the morning we went to a few shops in Gilroy to find some warm clothes to be prepared for the chilly forecast of 45F (7C) for the evening. We drove then along route 152 towards East along the Pacheco State Park and San Luis Reservoir. The views were amazing, very much different from anything I encountered so far. We saw lots of cattle on the hills and only a few farms. After a quick lunch in Los Banos we headed to Fresno and then along endless fields of olive and orange trees finally into the Sierra Nevada on the King's Canyon Road (route 180).
Driving up the mountain slopes the temperature dropped steadily towards the 34F (+1C) mark. We had about 60 km left to the lodge. After a while I noticed some strange white stuff next to the road, it was snow! Few minutes later it started to snow and at about 7000 feet the road was covered by snow and slippery. We stopped at a sign mentioning that tire snow chains are required from this point on. We still had about 40 km to drive and I wasn't sure what to do. Our tires were alright and I hoped we wouldn't have to go higher anymore.
Then a car came, passed us slowly and decided to turn around and park beside us. It was a park ranger who told us the road to our lodge was closed due to heavy snow. Only one other way to get us there (also with chains only). The problem with that one was that we were too late. It would take three hours detour and by then the roadwork would block already the way. Near the lodge, the temperature would be 20F (-6C) and more snow to come. We were not very keen to see more snow before returning to Finland, so had to change our plans.
We decided to take the rangers' tip to go to Visalia for one night. I phoned the lodge to explain our unusual situation, which we really couldn't know beforehand. The guy wasn't understanding at all. He said that they have a 48-hour cancellation policy and we would be charged the full amount. They'll never have me as a customer after that..
So I turned around to drive all the way back down. Then my wife said: "There is one!". I didn't get it and looked into the direction she pointed. There was one of the sequioa giants, I couldn't believe it! After parking the car I went through the snow to see it up-close. Man, it was big. If it wasn't for my wife I would have completely missed that moment, thank you!!
The rest of the day was only driving to Visalia, got a room, dinner and well, here I write. As disappointed I am about the giants, I can't say this day was boring.. :) We already have a new plan and I highly doubt it will include snow....
Actually I was already on my way to bed because of tomorrow's early start. Sirens outside and the noise around our apartment keep me awake. So far I wrote a lot about my traveling, here are insight into what's happening in our apartment building right now at 12.00am. Right door neighbors are having a party with their stereos turned up. Left door neighbors are quiet, so I guess they are in the pub downstairs to the right or upstairs.
Upstairs another group runs across the hallway and dance in their rooms to loud music. The walls are almost shaking. Under our apartment is a burger place which is closing at midnight. That's when the first big group of loud students "rock" the street. At 2am comes the next wave; the pub is closing then. So it's after 2.30am when the street starts to be silent until morning traffic picks up.
Next week is Thanksgiving and this place will be empty as all are going home to their families. So this is the last weekend together, let's party!
Here is my guide on how to become a true UMD student living in the Varsity:
Wednesday: "Let's party-practice for the weekend"
Thursday: "Sorry, I thought it's Friday already?!"
Friday: "Party, yeeeeeeah"
Saturday: "Gotta keep partying"
Sunday: "Oops, I have to do some homework"
Monday: "I'm so tired, can't everybody just be quiet?"
Tuesday: "Shouldn't we plan the next party?"
Everyone in our group is above 30, so some of us discussed the noise level with the "kids". While some actually listened and respectfully turn town the volume, others just slammed the door in front of one's nose.
I always have been a night person, so I don't mind those parties around too much. After all, I still remember the time in my twenties..:) What I really love at night is being awake while the rest of the world sleeps. I really miss that, because in this house it's almost impossible.
When arriving at the Varsity, everybody received a T-shirt as a welcome present. Written text: "Where do you sleep tonight". It sure made me feel that this will be a great place to sleep.....
On Sunday night, our group had an international evening here at the Varsity’s game room. We enjoyed food, presentations and stories of Israel, Mexico, South Africa, Finland and Germany. My wife prepared some Finnish salmon rolls and fish roe on hapankorppu, I contributed with Kӓsspӓtzle. Naturally I tasted all other countries’ dishes, of which I couldn’t figure out a favourite.
The Indian summer reached a peak on Monday with unbelievable +24°C (75°F), it was time to wear shorts outside! My wife and I went for a walk to Lake Artemesia to see how the leaves had changed their color. On the way we saw some deer in the woods looking for food. They actually stood just a few meters from the path and clearly got used to being around humans. At the lake we saw autumn leaves in fantastic colors and the view was totally different compared to my last visit in September. The water was occupied by a few hundred wild geese on their way towards South. It was a beautiful sight and great to hear them chatting.
My wife’s teacher group had a reception in the town hall of College Park later that night. So the “plus one’s” (two other husbands from Singapore, 4 kids and me) decided to go to a local diner. Silver Diner is a small chain of restaurants using fresh and local food. They even had organic ketchup on the table. The food was lovely and – apart from the cheese fries (yummy!) – very healthy indeed. I still can smell the last memory of the night, a “healthy” portion of one of the kids chocolate milkshake on my trousers. I should have worn my shorts...
"Almost heaven, West Virginia
Blue Ridge Mountains
Shenandoah River -
Life is old there
Older than the trees
Younger than the mountains
Growin’ like a breeze
Country Roads, take me home
To the place I belong….."
Jon Denver wrote and recorded this song in 1971, just over 40 years ago. During my teens I took part in a two-week youth camp in the Alps every year. This song was always one of my favourite especially during the camp fires. Yesterday I went with my wife’s teachers group to the area described in that song. On this sunny Saturday we left at 8am from College Park to visit Luray Caverns (a limestone cavern system) in Shenandoah Valley, Virginia. For more than an hour we drove through a landscape with mountains, valleys, meadows and farms. It reminded me of areas like Allgäu and Palatinate Forest (Pfälzer Berge) in Germany.
We then enjoyed a guided tour underground and the view was breathtaking. I was so glad to bring my tripod to get some nice shots, which in my opinion are the best way to ‘write’ about these caverns. Remember you can click all the pictures to see them in full size.
The days before that I spent mostly in College Park area. Laundry, grocery shopping and some nice walks were the main activities. My wife was busy with her project, so for me it was good to stop for a while after travelling so much during the last weeks. I noticed that my limit visiting major cities was reached. My soul was - and is still - hungry for nature.
Cities, skyscrapers and museums are nice and I can certainly appreciate and value them. But fact is, they don’t really give me that much energy. When I’m in the mountains, forests or at a lake, it is completely different. The feeling inside me is much more calm and enthusiastic at the same time. I guess that is one reason why I enjoyed Central Park in NYC so much. Nature is important for me. It’s one of those places where I can create positive stress, relax, re-charge my batteries and open up my mind.
Paint Branch Trail, close by our apartment
Paint Branch Trail
Autumn leaves
Autumn at the UMD campus
Luray Caverns
Nice reflection
Near the Caverns
Shenandoah Valley
The song from John Denver: Country roads, take me home
After a rather uneventful Halloween night it was time to pack the bags yet again. On Tuesday afternoon my wife and I flew to Chicago where she joined a multicultural education conference. My role was - as usual - to plan leisure activities such as sightseeing and dinner locations for the free evenings.
My Wednesday began at noon, I think. After my wife's "silent" departure at 8am I turned around to get a few more hours of sleep. Then I strolled around the city towards Millenium Park spending quite some time at the Cloud Gate, nicknamed the bean. My index finger almost cramped shooting so many pictures in all different angles. Great spot if you want to fill up your memory card! Once I was convinced I had enough photos I made my way towards to conference location for pick-up service (one of my many new-found talents....). Dinner was at Petterino's, great food there.
On rainy Thursday I went to the Field Museum of Natural History. I was exited to see exhibitions of American Indian culture and other ancient cultures such as Incas, Aztecs and Mayas. Then it was time to catch a 3D movie about Sue, the T-Rex. Its skeleton was displayed in the main hall and very impressive. Seeing the giant jaw made me hungry and I grabbed a quick bite although my hopes of a dinosaur burger where not fulfilled. After lunch I went on to the Underground Adventure. It started by walking through a shrinking chamber after which I was only 1/100 of my size. The exhibition idea was to walk through soil about 1 inch below. A earthworm and a wolf spider were suddenly much bigger than me, scary stuff after Halloween. Whales were the main subject of the last exhibition I saw.
Before arriving in the US I dreamed of a couple of things I wanted to experience during my stay. One was going to listen to some live jazz. So for dinner I chose Andy's Jazz Club. The atmosphere was very nice and the Rocky Yera quartet played two nice sets for us.
Before flying back to D.C. on Sunday night we did some sightseeing during the weekend. We walked through the center, along the shore of Lake Michigan and strolled through the Navy Pier. A boat tour taught us more about all the skyscrapers. Seems to me that in Chicago the architecture is playing a bigger role than in New York City. All in all, Chicago is a great city to visit, very clean and indeed very windy.
Almost forgot: my wife told me that in one shop was a big shoe special day. There were at least hundred pairs of size 14 and 15 to chose from. I was in shoe heaven and tried even a pair of size 17! It was a new experience to wear shoes that are too big..
Cloud Gate, Chicago
Reflections of a bean
Sue
Migration birds
A tourist trying to find out what Marylin Monroe wears..
